Bangkok To Krakow

No we haven’t been transported forward 543 years, this is the current year in Thailand. An interesting little fact is that the Thai Calendar begins with Buddhas birth 2551 years ago. 95% of the population are Buddhist, and with the abundance of Wat (Temples) and Spirit Houses it is not hard to believe. So it begins with the birth of Buddha, but where do Wat and Spirit Houses come into it?

Gaining an understanding of Thai Buddhism will surely have your head spinning. One thing is for sure and that is that Thai culture is entrenched with their faith, traditions and rituals, all practiced on a daily basis. From our short stay here we have come to see the austere side of faith through visiting the Buddhist Temples and our daily monk spotting. The monks are literally everywhere but nowhere. You can see by our photos how elusive these guys are, turning corners, disappearing behind trees. Then there are the ordinary Thai faithful, all 95% of them. Buddhism is a way of life for people here. It is not to say that they are all self denying and self sacrificing individuals. They are mostly accepting and compassionate though. Where you or they are on the path of enlightenment is not important to them and, with the ultimate Buddha offering being that of mental betterment, they are self development gurus!

Some basic googling finds that the primitive people of Thailand practiced Animism, which includes ancestor worship and brings life to all plants, animals and natural forces. In addition there were some influences from Hinduism that came through Cambodia. But when Buddhism came on the scene in 218 BE (Buddhist Era) the Thais took it on as their formal religion, retaining many of the former ways of Animism and Hinduism. This is reminiscent of Christianity and the conversion of pagan tribes in Europe, adopting the primitive traditions as their own. The operative and differentiating word here is converting. That is one big difference between Buddhism and other religions - It does not reject other religions. Further research shows that there are several schools of Buddhism followed today. Thailand, along with South East Asia and Sri Lanka, practice Theravada Buddhism. Also know as the Doctrine of the Elders, it is the oldest and most conservative school of Buddhism. This is the branch that has taken seed in the west. Theravada Buddhism interwoven with the folk religion and its animistic and Hindu belief systems makes for a highly pious and superstitious culture.

Here, prayers and rituals envelope each and every day and special occasion. The respect, simplicity and humbleness of these traditions makes you feel apart of something larger. It is actually very similar to being in a country that is solely Catholic, like Poland. There is something bonding and special when people come together to celebrate and mourn days, seasons and events in the same manner. The sameness is very comforting.

Our favourite sight has been the ubiquitous Spirit House and the offerings and trinkets that adorn desks and dashboards. Usually about the size of a giant doll house, just about every house, business and building has a spirit house erected out front, as a little shrine to the spirits about. The inhabitants of the property set out offerings of food and drink, incense and candles. For HBO viewers it is as if you have stepped onto the set of Rome, substituting the Roman Senators for Buddhist monks and brutality for compassion. The parallels between folk religions are interesting. This type of belief system is found amongst most hunter-gatherer, tribal and village cultures around the world. It seems that somewhere along the line we became disconnected.

Then there are the Buddhist temples or Wat. The Wat of Chiang Mai are extremely enchanting and ethereal. To some they may seem overly ornate and at times ostentatious, however they are clearly a reflection of devotion and honour. Chiang Mai boasts approximately 300 Wat, strewn among the roads and soi of the Old Town and beyond. Being a place of prayer, meditation and offering they are also used as a meeting place for the community for ceremonies, discussions and gatherings, fairs and fundraisers, food courts and support groups. You name it. A must see is the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, Wat Chiang Man, and Wat Phan An, where the Sunday Walking Street Market food court is held. There you will most definitely be approached by a helpful tourist guide that will suggest other temples that are a must see within and beyond the gates of the Old Town. Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep up on Doi Suthep is a main attraction within Chiang Mai. To get there requires a beautiful scenic ride up the mountain, and make sure it is a clear day to fully appreciate the view of Chiang Mai and the valley from above. 309 steps later, we made our wishes, circled the Chedi, made our offerings of flowers, candles and incense and had Zofia receive a much needed blessing for protection from the local monk in the form of a white string around her wrist.

The Wat of Chiang Mai can also offer a wonderful place to cool down, reflect or simply relax. In the midst of all the history and the mish mash of cultural influences we found our favourite temple, Wat Lok Molee. Right on the banks of the Old Town moat, it is a gem hidden from the roar of the street traffic. It is peaceful and beautiful… ah the serenity of some family time.